Underground Designers Thriving In Iran's Fashion Market, Official Admits - RadioFarda |
- Underground Designers Thriving In Iran's Fashion Market, Official Admits - RadioFarda
- Online Fashion Site Moda Operandi Raises $100M For Expansion - pymnts.com
- Why Netflix Will Sell Clothing From 'Next in Fashion' Winners on Net-a-Porter - Hollywood Reporter
- Katie Holmes Broke Two Major Fashion Rules in One Look - msnNOW
- 'Next in Fashion' Star Minju Kim Designed Clothes for K-Pop Sensation BTS in the Past - Distractify
| Underground Designers Thriving In Iran's Fashion Market, Official Admits - RadioFarda Posted: 01 Feb 2020 11:22 AM PST "We should not forget that the fashion and clothing market is dominated by underground designers and producers," an Iranian official in charge of "supervising and controlling fashion and clothing" admitted in an interview with an Iranian news agency (ILNA) on Saturday. The lady is also responsible for the Fajr Fashion and Clothing Festival, one of the several festivals to celebrate the 41st anniversary of the Islamic Revolution, next week. What Ms. Marzieh Shafapour admitted is the truth and the whole truth. Four decades after an Islamic Revolution which aimed to create an alternative to the western culture and fashion among other things, the Islamic Republic has gravely failed.  The way Iranians, particularly women, dress is usually a big surprise to foreigners visiting the country who usually expect to see black-veiled women who are seen in photos and on western channels marching in official rallies. But many Iranian women simply follow the minimum Islamic dress code, meaning a headscarf and a tunic or coat called manteaux. It's compulsory and defying it is punishable by law. Ingenious designers, and fashionable women, however, always find ways to twist the compulsory headscarf and tunic into fashion statements rather than a statement of faith or belief in the ideals of the Islamic Revolution, always pushing the boundaries further and further.  In the past ten years or so, with the advent of social media that allowed underground designers to showcase their creations and share them with others, underground fashion has experienced a boom. Amid internet censorship by throngs of government cyber-censors, many worked their way through proxy servers and VPNs to post professionally-taken photos of models donning their creations on Instagram and Telegram, and sell them to the fashion-hungry. The Islamic Republic now had to fight its war against fashion-savvy women and men on several fronts, on social media, on the streets, with modeling agencies they said promoted vulgarity, with underground boutiques and private fashion shows. In March last year the police raided a fashion show in Lavasan, a posh mountainous area near Tehran dotted with villas nestled in fruit orchards, and arrested everyone. The female models wore head covers and their clothes were not revealing at all, but they wore wings. Conservative websites said the designs resembled those of "Satan-worshipers". Needless to say, both organizers and participants got into serious trouble with the law for "promoting immorality". A sneaky video of a fashion show that was aborted by the morality police.Things haven't stopped there for the Islamic establishment. Since 2017 a campaign against forced dress code, founded by Masih Alinejad has been driving the hardliner religious and political establishment up the walls. Women who joined the campaign would drop their headscarves in public places, take selfies or videos and publish them online. Iranian security forces now tired of fighting women on the streets are hunting for campaign activists. Several of them are now in prison. In the 80s and 90s defying the dress code meant wearing short tunics or colorful scarves and letting a few strands of hair hang out from under it, now it is quite the norm. Defying hijab used to be punished by arrests at the hands of the morality police, facing trial, being sentenced to prison, fined or even lashed.  In the summer of 1989 I went through the arrest, trial and lashes myself for wearing a colorful scarf and tunic, make-up and letting my hair show from under the tiny scarf. Women like me were called "bad hijab" which means a woman who is not properly observant of the Islamic dress code. My look was pretty tame compared with the way many women in Iran dress now, my tunic came down to my knees and at least had buttons in the front, but the judge who summarily tried tens of women on that hot summer day meted out six lashes to me. He was lenient toward me because I was just married, others got many more lashes.  |
| Online Fashion Site Moda Operandi Raises $100M For Expansion - pymnts.com Posted: 31 Jan 2020 02:57 PM PST Online fashion marketplace Moda Operandi announced a $1 million funding boost that it will use to invest in its technology and bolster business overall. Moda Operandi, which specializes in luxury fashion "right off the runway," raised the money from a mix of equity and debt, according to a report in TechCrunch. CEO Ganesh Srivats said in a statement that the investment would allow the company to continue its mission of "disrupting the way people shop for luxury fashion." He said the funding would help the firm invest more in its clients and platform. Financing is being co-led by NEA and Apex Partners, both of which have invested in Moda before. There was also participation by the Santo Domingo family, which is connected to Moda Operandi Co-Founder Lauren Santo Domingo. Comerica Bank and TriplePoint Capital were also named, and there were more investors that were not named. While the company's current value wasn't disclosed, it had post-money valuation of $650 million in 2017, according to data from PitchBook, and has raised $345 million to date. High-end fashion has been a bountiful market for the eCommerce industry. Those who don't have the time to attend high-dollar catwalk shows in person, or who live in out-of-the-way places, have taken to the internet to get their fix of fashion items. And they have the income to buy what they want, too. For that type of market, websites, apps and platforms like Instagram have been helpful. Moda has been reaping the rewards of the trend. But some fashion retailers have begun riding new trends, such as relying more on third party messaging apps to reach those interested, rather than traditional websites. Moda started in 2010 as the brainchild of Santo Domingo, who is a socialite, former model and former Vogue editor. Her idea, as someone immersed in the fashion world, was to offer a way to expand the access people had to a designer's runway collection — previously something only a small circle of people would've had access to. With Moda Operandi, that circle has been expanded to a wider audience and revenues have improved for designers and brands.   |
| Posted: 29 Jan 2020 12:07 PM PST Executive producer Yasmin Shackleton and host Tan France explain why the streamer will sell winning fashion, following a similar move from Amazon's 'Making the Cut.'Project Runway is about to face some stiff competition from streamers. After Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn jumped ship ahead of the show's Bravo retooling, they teamed to host and executive produce fashion reality series Making the Cut on Amazon, which debuts March 27. And they're taking it up a notch — clothing from the show will be shoppable on Amazon. Fellow streamer Netflix is also debuting a fashion reality series with pieces based on the winning collection available for purchase. Out Wednesday, Next in Fashion — hosted by Alexa Chung and Queer Eye's Tan France — follows competing design duos over 10 episodes as they take on themed runway challenges, such as "prints and patterns," "red carpet," "streetwear" and "underwear." The winner is awarded $250,000 and the ability to sell on high-end retailer Net-a-Porter, starting Feb. 5. Guest judges include stylist Elizabeth Stewart (whose clients include Julia Roberts and Gal Gadot), Eva Chen (head of fashion partnerships at Instagram), designer Prabal Gurung (worn by Tracee Ellis Ross and Gemma Chan) and designer Monique Lhuillier (worn by Michelle Obama and Blake Lively). Contestants include designers from Jay Z's Rocawear brand and Stella McCartney's label, as well as those that have dressed Beyoncé, Fergie, Katy Perry and Ariana Grande. Next in Fashion executive producer Yasmin Shackleton says the goal was to make the show "accessible and relatable," saying, "From the beginning, it was 'How do you make this accessible and not just for the elite of fashion?'" Thus the decision to sell on Net-a-Porter fit because the outlet is global and "they do launch designers who haven't had that kind of platform before. They're looking for unique designers." When selecting the winning collection, France says judges "absolutely" kept in mind what a consumer would realistically purchase. "The one that won felt so 'next' but it also definitely felt shoppable. There were separates, there were seasonless, it was technically commercial. In fashion, commercial feels like a dirty word, but it's necessary for a company to stay afloat. That was definitely a consideration when were deciding who would be the winner," France tells The Hollywood Reporter. France, who began sewing clothes when he was 13 and got his start as a designer, knows firsthand that getting an up-and-coming designer's pieces on a major retailer can truly launch their career. "I don't think people will understand the weight of that if they're at home and never launched a clothing brand. It's so hard to get on a site like that. It took me years to break through and get onto a major retailer's site," France says. "You go through meeting after meeting, heartbreak after heartbreak. ... So for our winner to be able to jump past that hoop, straight into a global platform is wonderful and a huge opportunity and hopefully gives our show great credibility." The Net-a-Porter partnership also affected the runway categories: "Each episode is based around something that everybody has in their closet," Shackleton says, pointing to the denim challenge. "Next in Fashion further showcases our long-term support of global fashion talent," said Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director of Net-a-Porter, in a statement. She added that the company (which carries designers from Gucci to Prada) is "delighted" to give "the opportunity to be stocked at Net-a-Porter to an incredibly deserving talent." Von der Goltz helped coordinate the translation of the winning collection using "those pieces as base patterns to source similar fabrics in a completely different city and country. It was a thoughtful method that was well worth it because the end result is a true interpretation of the winning collection," she said of the soon-to-be-revealed items, which are inspired by the shapes, volumes, colors and prints from the finale episode. Explaining how sales will affect how she views the success of Next in Fashion, Shackleton says she's confident that it's going to do well in terms of sales. "Are we going to find a winner who is going to be propelled into the spotlight? ... I'm hoping that they sell out and have to restock a million times because that would show that we've achieved the purpose of the show." Next in Fashion aims to modernize the fashion reality genre in other ways, including with a global selection of designers, positive attitude, and size-inclusive models. "They're all emerging talents as it is, but [we'll find] somebody who can actually break through," Shackleton says of contestants hailing from Brazil and China to the U.K. She cast the show by reaching out to Chen, magazine editors, fashion houses and the CFDA for recommendations, opposed to holding open casting calls in Chicago, New York and L.A. "[We] show this is what a workroom looks like. if you go into any designer's workroom, it is widely diverse," France adds. And it was a priority to make clothes not just for "a typical female runway model," Shackleton says. France points to the lingerie runway show featuring inclusive body types, not unlike Rihanna's Savage x Fenty event during New York Fashion Week. Viewers also won't be seeing cat fights. Shackleton was clear "there's not bitchiness in this show. It literally is all about celebrating the art and seeing how good and what these people can turn out." She emphasized that such a positive tone is what makes it right for now. France agreed: "I wanted to make sure — and I reminded myself of this every day — that it's a positive competition show. ... Alexa and I wanted to make sure that we crafted a show that was very positive, that we never knock down the designers, that we were respectful at all times, because we're designers. We know what it feels like to be critiqued." France ended up loving the designs so much that he and Chung frequently beg to wear pieces that contestants have made. They haven't yet sported them, however, teasing that he couldn't find them after the episode wrapped. "I think the producers started to get an understanding that Alexa and I were going to become little thieves on the show, trying to steal stuff that we were obsessed with. So as soon as the episode was over, we never saw those things again. They were very stealthy because they knew how stealthy we were," he says. "We don't wear something unless we love it. ... There's a camel suit that I was obsessed with — me and Alexa both tried on during filming," he explains. "You see me in it on camera. You don't see her in it on camera. But we both are fighting over that and I think that might be the thing that breaks our relationship because [we both] want it so badly. ... In the final two collections, I'd say 90 percent of those collections I want desperately." That dream might just become a reality when similar pieces hit Net-a-Porter next month. Updated Jan. 29 at 1:48 p.m.  |
| Katie Holmes Broke Two Major Fashion Rules in One Look - msnNOW Posted: 01 Feb 2020 08:20 AM PST  © Getty 14 January 2020, Berlin: Katie Holmes, US actress, comes to the show of the label "Marc Cain" during the Berlin Fashion Week. Photo: Britta Pedersen/dpa-Zentralbild/dpa (Photo by Britta Pedersen/picture alliance via Getty Images)As Katie Holmes stepped out in New York City on January 30, I doubt she knew she was breaking both of my mother's cardinal fashion rules. When I was a teenager in the year [redacted], I owned a pair of strappy Marc Jacobs sandals I was absolutely obsessed with. I wore them almost every day until the Connecticut leaves fell from the trees and the temperature dropped to unreasonable levels. Initially, I'd planned to continue wearing my treasured footwear, so I simply threw on a pair of tights to protect my legs from the chill. "Change your shoes," my mother told me before I walked out the door. "You don't wear open-toed sandals with tights." Why? Because it looks "weird," and it's just not done. Well, tell that to Katie Holmes, Mom! The actor attended the American Australian Association Arts Awards Thursday night, wearing a '90s-inspired white ruched dress from designer Khaite's prefall 2020 collection under a black overcoat from Wardrobe.NYC. Oh, and she finished off the look with a pair of Calzedonia tights, strappy black sandals, and a pop of red polish on her toes.  © Raymond Hall (BTW, if Katie wearing Khatie sounds familiar, you may recall the Dawson's Creek alum's viral cashmere bra moment from last year.) Speaking of bras, Holmes ignored another fashion ordinance, purposely exposing one black bra strap under her dress. She basically put an end to the off-the-shoulder stress we've all been facing for the past few years. Ill-fitting strapless bra? I don't know her.  © Raymond Hall The full effect Zendaya also attended the benefit for the Australian Bushfire Relief Fund with her Euphoria costar Jacob Elordi, wearing an asymmetrical Christopher Esber dress featuring the pockets of every woman's dreams. She paired the daring look with simple black pumps and Vhernier drop earrings.  © Jim Spellman How many snacks do you think are in those pockets? Now excuse me while I text a million pictures of these looks to my unsuspecting mother. Related video: Innovative fashion designers lead the way on sustainability (Provided by Associated Press)  Replay Video UP NEXT
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| Posted: 30 Jan 2020 01:20 PM PST  In 2015, the designer was announced as the winner of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Frequently regarded as a rite of passage for the most-sought-after fashion designers, previous nominees include Simon Porte Jacquemus, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, and Masayuki Ino, the brains behind the cultic Japanese streetwear brand, Doublet. Minju earned the award with a playful yet feminine collection full of bold shapes and quirky designs.  |
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